Monday 23 January 2012

Togoville/ Lake Togo

Togo is quickly racing up the list to become my new favorite African nation. What an amazing place! After Lome, we went out to lake Togo and stayed at " L'auberge du lac" a beautiful campsite on the waterfront. From here, a few members of the group wandered through the village and met "Lucien" a young school teacher. They asked him specifically about Voodoo in the region and he offered to take us across the lake in his pirogue to explore The town of Togoville.

As we crossed the lake towards Togoville we stopped at the "house of the ancestors", a spot in the lake where passing boats stop to honor the ancestors and ask for safe passage! After passing the flags and smearing lake mud on our foreheads, we continued towards the shore where we were carried from the boats by big strong boys. During the tour of the village we saw many voodoo fetishes and our guides explained how each one worked. People come to the fetish and ask for what they need or want. When their wishes have been granted, they bring a sacrifice back to the fetish to thank the gods/ ancestors. The absolute best part of the day was when Lucien took us to meet the Supreme chief of Voodoo for all of Togo. She is known as Mama Kponu and she shares her job with a man and together they're the religious head of the country. In order to go in and see her, we needed to be dressed appropriately. Traditionally, that would be naked wearing only a straw skirt. Nowadays, it means covered in a cotton wrap with no clothing showing. We all took our tops off and got prepared to go in and see her. We also had to go through a clapping ritual in order to ask permission to enter. This experience was amazing, she sat with us and answered all our questions about voodoo. We asked her about voodoo being Considered black magic. She explained that it is called black magic but there is no evil or dark force attached to it. Some people will misuse the magic to get what they want but I. The long term, these people will only anger the gods and bring themselves trouble! Mostly the magic is used with good intentions and would be what we westerners consider white magic. From what she explained, Voodoo seems like a very misunderstood religion! We also got to participate in some of the rituals attached with going to see her. We all got bracelets blessed and tied on our wrists. This is meant to ward off evil and allow safe passage wherever we may go! At the end, two of us asked her about fortunes and if she reads the future. She does. In order to have this done we needed to purchase 4 bottles of Gin ( approx. 10$) and pay about 24$. How could I say no? During this ritual, most of the Gin was spilt on the threshold of a doorway as an offering to the ancestors. The news was good people! Apparently I'm having much love and happiness...oh and twins! We'll see :) This experience was phenomenal. One of the best days of the trip so far!

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